If you've dabbled in sewing lingerie before and you're ready to take your skills to the next level, you're in the right place. At Maeve Design Studio, we're passionate about helping sewers like you refine your craft and create beautiful lingerie pieces. Here are some top tips and tricks to help you elevate your lingerie-making game.
Stitch Selection
Choosing the right stitches is crucial in lingerie sewing. For stretch fabrics, you need to use a stretch stitch or the fabric won't be able to stretch and the seam will break. An overlocker/serger is ideal for taking your makes to the next level, but you can also use a zigzag or lightening stitch. You will also need a stretch stitch for attaching elastics, my favourite is a simple zigzag, but you can also use a coverstitch, twin-needle or overlock stitch. It is a good idea to experiment with different stitches on scrap fabric to find the one that works best for your project.
There are so many specialist machines and stitches used in professional lingerie production that it isn't possible to have all of them in your home studio! However, with a bit of imagination, you can still make professional looking lingerie at home!
Finishes
Learn a range of finishing techniques, like attaching wire casing, french seams, and adding seam tape. Expanding your repertoire will not only create a polished look on the inside of your garments, but also allow you to experiment with your makes and create more complicated designs.
Precision Cutting
Because underwear is so small and form-fitting, it is really important to be accurate when making. Cutting with precision is the first step to accurately made lingerie. Use sharp fabric scissors or a rotary cutter to smoothly cut around curves and small pieces. Take your time when cutting so you don't make any mistakes and don't be afraid the reposition your pieces multiple times before picking up your scissors.
My favourite way to cut out my fabrics is with a rotary cutter. I use my pattern master to line the grain and stretch lines up, I then weight my patterns down before cutting out. I also mark around the edges with my air soluble pen in case I knock my pattern out of place when cutting (I sometimes skip this step 🙈).
Try out new fabrics
Now that you have mastered working with lingerie fabrics, don't be afraid to mix and match and experiment with new things. Combining lace with velvet or satin with tulle can add depth and texture to your lingerie creations. Once you understand fabrics and their different properties, you can start to push the boundaries of what is possible and test out new ideas. Just be sure to choose fabrics with similar stretch properties to the pattern to maintain fit and comfort.
Pattern adapting
So, you've tried out a few basic shapes, but now you want to make your own, more intricate designs? Trying out some simple pattern adaptations can be a great way to get to grips with lingerie pattern cutting techniques. Take a pattern or block that you like the fit of and try out a small, simple adaptation such as adding or moving a seam, changing the finishing techniques or adjusting a hem position. The more you practice the better you will get and you will be able to attempt more complicated designs.
Embrace Mistakes
Remember, mistakes are part of the learning process! Think of each project is a chance to improve your skills and don't get discouraged if your first few attempts aren't perfect.
With these tips in your arsenal, you're well on your way to creating lingerie pieces that are both beautiful and comfortable. Don't forget to check out our store for a range of sewing patterns designed with home sewers in mind.
Stay tuned for more lingerie sewing tutorials and tips right here on our blog. Happy sewing!