Fashion and Sewing Glossary
There are a lot of technical terms used in sewing, but even more so in lingerie sewing. We have compiled a list of commonly used sewing and intimates words to help make sewing more accessible and less daunting when you are just starting out. This is a work in progress so please let us know you think if we have missed any!
A
Apex
In Europe the term apex refers to the the part of the bra where the straps join the cup. Altering the height and position of the apex will alter the shape and fit of a bra. For example triangle bras have a high apex and balcony bras usually have a lower apex.
In the US, apex often refers to the fullest part of the cup or the 'bust point'.
Appliqué
This is a technique used to attach two or more layers of fabric together. In lingerie and intimates, appliqué would usually be used to attach lace to a lining or main fabric. This is done by positioning the lace on top of the fabric and sewing close to the lace edge following the shape of the design. The fabric underneath is usually then trimmed close to the stitch edge. A small zigzag is usually used, with a straight stitch sometimes used for certain rigid fabrics.
B
Back tack or Back stitch
2 or 3 reverse stitches at the beginning and ends of a seam used to secure the stitches and prevent the sema from coming undone.
An alternative finishing technique for delicate fabrics or darts; is to pull both loose threads to the back of the garment and tie in a small, tight knot.
Balcony or Balconette
The balcony bra shape is defined by being low cut with wide-set straps and an uplifting shape. The wire is half circle shaped with the centre front and underarm of the wire being of equal height. The traditional balconette bra has a straight neck edge and gives the breast an uplifted, ‘shelf like’ shape.
The balcony wire can be used as a base to create design with different shapes and styles such as a cupless bra, a demi-cup bra or a high apex style bra. The wire’s defining characteristic is that the centre front and underarm are level, creating a half circle shape. The wire is not as long as a full cup wire.
Bar tack
A bar tack is a type of stitch used to strengthen weak spots in a garment. It can be made using a bar tack machine or with multiple rows of small zigzag stitches. It is typically used on bra straps, wire casing, belt loops, jeans ect.
Baste
A line of temporary stitches designed to hold seams in place before the final finish is completed. Usually made with a long straight stitch with no back-tacking at the ends. The stitch doesn’t need to be strong as it is often removed or covered up.
Bias
Bias refers to the direction of a piece of fabric at a 45-degree angle to the selvedge or grain line. Woven fabrics have the greatest amount of stretch or give in this direction. Cutting on the bias will allow the fabric to contour the body and gives it a lovely drape.
Bias Tape
Narrow strips of fabric cut on the bias (at a 45-degree angle to the selvedge). This gives the fabric a stretch which allows it to adapt to curves, making it an ideal finish for necklines, armholes or any curved edges. The strip encases the raw edges of a hem or seam to prevent fraying. Bias tape can also be used to make spaghetti or rouleau straps.
Breast root
The breast root is the part of the body where the breast tissue starts and ends. The shape of the breast root can vary ranging from narrow to wide. An important factor to remember when looking for the breast root is that the breast tissue can extend into the underarm.
It is important when choosing a bra style and size that wires do not sit beyond the breast root onto the breast tissue; this can result in discomfort and the incorrect support.
Bridge
The bridge (or gore) of a bra refers to the centre front space that sits in between the breasts. This is an important component to a bra as it can determine the fit and shape of a bra. A higher bridge will allow for full coverage cups while a low bridge will result in a plunge or half up style. The bridge needs to be strong and non-stretch, especially in wired bras, and it will often be stabilise or reinforced with a stabilised nylon lining.
In a well fitting bra, the bridge should sit flat against the torso. An ill fitting bra’s bridge will float above the breasts and won’t touch the ribcage. The bridge can be floating or it can be attached to a cradle that fully encompasses the cups.
Bust point or apex
The bust point refers to the fullest part of the bust or the peak of the cup. This is sometimes where the nipple is positioned, but this is not always the case. This point is usually where bra darts will finish or seams will run through.
C
Chantilly lace
Chantilly lace is a type of lace that is handmade using bobbins rather than needles. It originated in the Chantilly region of France in the eighteenth century. Usually made of silk, but can be made of a fine linen. Chantilly lace is made on a base of net or point d’esprit.
Cup
The cup is the part of a bra that holds the breast tissue. It is sewn into a cradle or it is attached to the wing and bridge. The cup sizes is indicated by the letter in traditional bra sizing.
Cut a pair
Some garments need a left and right side mirror pair. This can be down by laying your pattern piece on folded fabric and cutting out, this gives you two fabric pieces which are mirror images of each other. Lingerie making requires high accuracy; a more accurate way to cut a pair is to cut each piece one at a time. Cut one piece by lining up the grain lines, then flip the pattern piece over and reposition to cut the second piece. It can be helpful to draw the grain lines on the back of the pattern if you cannot see through the paper.
Cookie
Cookies are the small pieces of removable cup padding found in some bras. They are common in sports bras and bikini tops.
Cradle
The cradle of a bra is the fabric that sits under and around the cups. This is usually non-stretch in wired bras and will incorporate the bridge. Bras with a cradle will have the wire attached down onto the cradle instead of on the cups.
D
Dart
Darts are a technique used for shaping garments and helping fabric contour the body. Darts are created by stitching triangular or diamond shaped folds into a garment. The dart usually tapers to a point with the folded fabric being pressed to one side. Often found at the bust, waist and shoulders.
In lingerie, darts are usually small and curved. In traditional garment construction, the excess fabric is kept and folded to one side, but in lingerie the shape of the dart is cut with narrow seam allowance and the stitch line is tapered to a soft point. The seam allowance will be finished with an overlock or covered in seam tape.
E
Easy
Ease is the room in a garment that allows the wearer to move, breathe and sit. The amount of ease will vary between different patterns or garments. Lingerie sewing patterns do not usually account for ease as the garments are designed to sit as close to the body as possible.
East-west
This term refers to a type of bust shape where the breast tissue points away from the centre and is usually characterised by having a gap at the centre front.
Edge stitch
A line of stitching close to the edge of a seam, hem or opening. It is done to reinforce a garment or as a decorative finish. It differs from topstitching, as it is usually as close to an edge as possible.
F
French Seam
French seaming is a luxury a technique usually reserved for lightweight or sheer fabrics, French seams enclose a seams raw edges within a small channel that is then stitched closed. Visit our blog post here for more information on how to do this technique.
Full-cup
A full-cup bra is a bra that is designed to have a high level of support and coverage. A full-cup wire is the largest wire, finishing high at the centre front and even higher at the underarm. This style is best suited to larger breast and people whose breast tissue sits high or centrally. It might not be suitable for those whose breast tissue is low or east-west.
G
Galloon lace
A galloon can be defined as a woven or braided trim. A galloon lace is a narrow (up to approx 40cm wide) lace trim that typically has a scallop or decorative edge. A lace with two scallop edges is sometimes referred to as a double galloon. Galloon lace can be either stretch or rigid. Double galloon lace is often made with two mirror sides while single galloon lace might be made as two separate mirror pairs.
Gore
The gore (or bridge) of a bra refers to the centre front space that sits in between the breasts. This is an important component to a bra as it can determine the fit and shape of a bra. A higher gore will allow for full coverage cups while a low bridge will result in a plunge or half up style. The gore needs to be strong and non-stretch, especially in wired bras, and it will often be stabilise or reinforced with a stabilised nylon lining.
In a well fitting bra, the gore should sit flat against the torso. An ill fitting bra’s gore will float above the breasts and won’t touch the ribcage. The gore can be floating or it can be attached to a cradle that fully encompasses the cups.
Grade
Taking a pattern from one size and making it a new size e.g. taking a size 8 pattern and growing it to a size 16. This is a highly skilled technique, especially for lingerie.
Grain
The grain of a fabric describes the direction of the warp and weft in woven fabrics. The straight or lengthwise grain follows the direction of the warp and is parallel to the selvedge. The cross-grain follows the same direction as the weft and is perpendicular to the selvage.
Gusset
In underwear the gusset refers to the section of the garment that sits in between the legs. This will usually be an operate pattern piece or feature a seam at the front or back. In women’s underwear the gusset will be lined with a separate piece of cotton fabric which is attached at the gusset seam, this is sometimes loose at one end forming a ‘pocket’. Cotton is used for hygiene.
H
Hem
This term refers to how the bottom edge of a garment is finished. There are a variety of different hem types and techniques e.g. rolled hem, blind hem, single hem and bound hem. The most common is a simple double fold hem where the edge of the fabric is folded twice towards the inside and then stitched closed with a lock stitch.
I
Interfacing
An additional layer of fabric used to add structure or strength to part of a garment e.g. collars. It is usually layered in between the lining and outer fabric. It is available as fusible iron-on or stitch-on.
L
Leavers lace
Leavers lace is a type of lace that is made on a special loom called a leavers loom. The leavers loom uses between 12,000 to 15,000 threads to weave the lace allowing it to weave intricate designs. Each stitch is finished with a small knot which has now become synonymous with leavers lace and is often imitated in lower quality, mass produced laces. Traditional leavers looms make approx 2m per hour and is a highly skilled process which accounts for the high cost of the lace.
​The leavers loom was invented in Nottingham by John Levers to rival the quality of handmade lace, but with a faster, mechanised process. The loom and technique was then exported to France, specifically Calais, which is now the centre of leavers lace production. Due to its highly skilled nature, leavers lace is considered to be rare and very valuable. Sometimes referred to as ‘Dentelle de Calais’.
Lining
​A layer of fabric on the inside of a garment to hide construction details, add structure, modesty or make the garment more comfortable for the wearer. In lingerie, linings tend to be highly functional, for example, gussets lined with cotton for hygiene, stabilised nylon added to bridges for strength.
Lock stitch
A simple straight stitch, the most common and essential type of machine stitch.
N
Nap
Some fabrics have a nap; this means the fibres of the fabric lie in a certain direction and usually have a raised texture. Fabric such as velvet, velour, terry cloth and suede all have a nap. When working with these fabrics, it is important to cut all the pattern pieces so that the nap is facing the same direction.
Notch
Notches are marks on a pattern piece, usually on seams, that help you to align to pieces accurately. You can mark this with pins, chalk, dissolvable pens, or cuts. For pattern pieces that have a small seam allowance (10mm or less), cutting in to mark the notch would not be an appropriate method of marking as the seam allowance is too small.
O
Overlock
An overlocker or serger is a multi-thread sewing machine used to secure seams and finish fabric edges. The threads encase the edge of the fabric preventing fraying and giving a neat finish. The machine can have 3, 4 or 5 threads and can be used for a range of techniques such as a stretch seam, hems or just finish seam edges.
P
Plunge
This is a type of bra characterised by having a low, plunging centre front. The wire in a plunge bra is much lower at the front than at the underarm. Usually the underarm will finish lower than in a full cup or a balcony wire. The plunge bra is not the most supportive style due to the low bridge and angled, ‘v’ neck of the cups. The plunge shape is ideal for creating an enhanced cleavage and for wearing under tops with a low neckline.
Plush-back
As lingerie sits directly against the skin, it is important that elements such as wire casing and elastics are soft and comfortable to wear. These elements are describe as having a ‘plush-back’. This can be identified by feeling which side of the elastic is fuzzy and soft.
R
Raw edge
This is the edge of a cut piece of fabric that can unravel or fray and has not been finished with a finishing technique such as a hem.
Right side/wrong side
Fabric usually has a right side and a wrong side. The right side is used for the outside of a garment with the wrong side facing in towards the body. In some cases such as with satin, the right and wrong sides are obvious, but this is not always the case.
Rouleau
A rouleau strap is a thing tube of fabric used for buttons, ties, straps or embellishments. It is made by folding a strip of bias tape lengthwise with right sides together and stitching along the edge to secure. The fabric is then turned with a rouleau turner or string so that the right sides face out and the seam edges is hidden. This technique is ideal for making delicate sleepwear with a luxury finish.
S
Seam
Seams join pieces of fabric together. There are a variety of seam techniques such as a french seam or a flat felled seam.
Seam allowance
Seam allowance is extra centimetres that are added to a pattern to allow for seams, hems or other techniques. The width can vary depending of the technique required and the personal preference of the patternmaker or brand. Lingerie typically has very narrow seam allowance between 4-10mm, but some techniques such as French seams require more seam allowance up to 15mm. The amount of seam allowance on a pattern is an indicator of what technique is required.
Sister size
In bras, a sister size is a size allows for the same breast volume but with a different band. Both the letter and band number will be different in sister sizes. To find your sister size you can go up a band size and down a cup size or down a band size and up a cup size. For example, if you wear a 34B, two of your sister sizes will be 36A and 32C. The cups of a 36B would not fit as the cup volume of these two sizes is different.
Sling
A sling is part of a bra cup that is added to add extra support to the breast. A sling sits at the side of the cup running from the apex to the wire edge. Slings can be incorporated into cup seams, floating or hidden in between the outer and lining fabric.
Stabiliser or stabilised nylon
A strong, lightweight, rigid fabric used to strengthen parts of a bra such as the bridge or cradle.
T
Toile
From the French for cloth, a toile is a test garment made up of a cheaper, similar fabric to test fit and shape of a garment and suitability of finishing techniques before the final version is made. Sometimes multiple toile garments are made before the pattern is finalised.
When making clothing, you can use calico, muslin or a similar fabric. However, when making lingerie, it is important to use a fabric that is as similar to the final fabric as possible or even the final fabric, this is because small changes to a fabric stretch or drape can have a big difference on the fit of an intimate garment. ​
Topstitch
Topstitching is a line of straight stitches close to a seam edge on the outside of a garment. Topstitching is done to give a decorative finish, secure facings, add strength or to flatten a seam.
Tracing wheel
A tracing wheel is a small tool that has a spiked wheel and a handle. It is used to transfer patterns or pattern marks on to a new piece if paper or, when used with carbon paper, it is used to transfer information from pattern to fabric.
Twin needle
An a sewing machine or attachment that has two needles. Used to sew two parallel lines of stitches; ideal for hems or for a decorative finish. It is a stretch stitch so can be used on stretch fabrics or for attaching elastic.
U
Underband
A bra’s cradle is sometimes referred to as the underband. The underband of a bra is the fabric that sits under and around the cups. This is usually non-stretch in wired bras and will incorporate the bridge.
Underband can also refer to the measurement taken to find someones bra size. This measurement is taken under the breasts, the whole way around the torso. The measuring tape should be parallel to the ground and be snug but not tight.
Underbust
The underbust measurement is used to find someones bra size. This measurement is taken under the breasts, the whole way around the torso. The measuring tape should be parallel to the ground and be snug but not tight.
Understitch
This refers to a line of stitching made on a facing or lining close to the seam edge and through the facing and seam alliance layers. This helps the facing to sit correctly and prevents it from rolling to the outside.
To under stitch an edge; press the seam allowance towards the lining, stitch the seam allowance to the lining as close to the seam line as possible. Then press the seam so that the lining sits on the inside.
Underwire
A underwire or wire sits under the breast tissue to give a bra shape and help support the bust. This wire can come in different shapes and sizes. The wire will determine the style and fit of a bra. Wires can be made from metal or alternative such as plastic.