Altering Patterns: Lace sleep set

Size 8 white model wearing teal green lace camisole and french knicker set stood in front of blue background; side front, side back and front view. Text "LACE SLEEP SET"

The second I saw this teal green lace, I knew I needed to make a lace cami and knicker set. It was the ideal width and the scallop edge would suit the draped styles perfectly. I decided to use our Skimpy French Knicker and Floaty Camisole styles but I needed to make a few alterations.

When drafting a pattern piece for a galloon or scallop edged lace, the edge where the lace scallop sits must always be a straight line; this is because the lace is a straight, continuous piece and, while this can be manipulated with darts, it cannot be changed. Understanding this principal, I knew I needed to straighten the bottom edges of my pattern pieces to fit the lace fabric.

Camisole

This pattern is usually cut on the bias, but this won't be possible using galloon lace. It is important to select an appropriate lace that will compensate for this change or the bust will be too tight. The lace that I chose had a heavily decorated edge with a lighter mesh middle that had some give; this is ideal as it has a nice drape will also fitting the bust comfortably. If you wish to use a very heavy, rigid lace then I would suggest sizing up.

Drawing of the floaty camisole pattern back panel with the original shape in red and the new lace shape drawn on top in black

Making the hem edges completely straight will slightly remove the curved, floaty edge from this style. To help keep this 'curved' shape you can add in a centre front and centre back seam; this will also prevent any 'points' at the side seams. Adding seams will change the aesthetic of the design slightly so I decided not to add any and just go for the simple straight edges. In hindsight, I think it would be cute to add multiple seams to both the front and back, so I might have to make a second version of this style!

Drawing of the floaty camisole pattern back panel with two options for the lace design; one with a centre back seam and one with two seams at the back. The original shape in red and the new lace shape drawn on top in black

French Knickers

This alteration was a bit more simple and I just traced the pattern and using my pattern master, redrew the hem straight. I considered altering the shape slightly by making it longer at the front but I decided I like the original cut best.

The Outcome

This alteration was so simple and completely changed the look of both styles. The look is fun, flirty and also really comfortable! I am really happy with the outcome and will definitely be making more lace cami sets!