If you've ever delved into the world of lingerie sewing, you know that elastic plays a crucial role in both function and aesthetics. From providing support to adding decorative flair, different types of elastics serve distinct purposes. However, navigating through the variety of elastics available can be bewildering, especially for beginners. In this guide, we'll unravel the mysteries of lingerie elastics, exploring their types, functions, and best practices for attachment.
Understanding Lingerie Elastic Types
Plush Back:
Nearly all elastics feature a plush or soft back, designed to rest comfortably against the skin during wear.
Picot or Decorative:
Some elastics come with a decorative or picot edge which adds a small design touch. When attaching, ensure the decorative edge faces inward initially, then outward upon turning.
Knicker Elastic:
Narrower and lighter in weight, knicker elastic is versatile and can be either straight or decorative. It typically features a plush back and is also suitable for bras.
Underband or Underarm Elastic:
Slightly heavier than knicker elastic, this type provides added support, making it ideal for wings and underbands. It may also boast decorative elements and has a plush back.
Strap Elastic:
With a firmer stretch and plush back, strap elastic is often heavier and comes in various widths. It may sport a shiny front and sometimes features a decorative or picot edge.
Fold-over/Binding Elastic: As the name suggests, this elastic folds over the garment's edge, providing a neat finish. It's typically secured with a zigzag or twin needle stitch.
Non-Slip Elastic: Equipped with a strip of silicone on the back, non-slip elastic is perfect for strapless bras, ensuring they stay in place.
Determining Elastic Length:
When it comes to determining the right amount of elastic for your lingerie project, there's no one-size-fits-all answer. Experimentation and practice are key. Start by attaching the elastic by feel rather than relying solely on measurements. Test different lengths on scraps and toile to find what looks and feels right for your design.
I remember at university, a friend and myself asked a tutor how we work out how much elastic to use. She responded that we could decide for ourselves. We were shocked and said surly there is some formula or standard? She explained that as all elastics and garments are different it wouldn’t be helpful to tell us an exact number to shorten our elastic by. She suggested that if it made us feel better we could start at removing 10% and see how it looked. I still find this is a good starting point for me but often this shortening by too much for me! I find it is also a matter of preference with fit and appearance so garment technicians might prefer a very slightly different length of elastic for the same garment.
How to Attach Lingerie Elastic:
Place the elastic on the right side of the garment edge, with the plush side facing up. Using a narrow zigzag stitch, sew along the inside edge of the elastic, stretching it evenly as you sew.
Fold the elastic to the garment's inside and sew along the bottom edge of the elastic using a wider zigzag or a 3-step zigzag stitch.
Top Tips for Lingerie Elastic Application:
Ensure the elastic is slightly smaller than the edge it's being applied to.
Test new elastics for stretch and adjust accordingly.
Quarter your elastic and the garment edge to ensure even distribution.
Mark the center front and center back of your pattern before cutting.
Lower your needle into the elastic before lowering the presser foot to maintain control.
Avoid overstretching the elastic, as it can affect its recovery.
Leave 1cm or 2cm of overhang when attaching elastic for easier sewing.
With this comprehensive guide to lingerie elastics, you're equipped with the knowledge and techniques to elevate your sewing projects. Experiment, practice, and embrace the versatility of elastics to create beautifully crafted lingerie pieces that fit and flatter.