If you want to give your garments a more luxury feel, then French seams are a great way to do this. Usually reserved for lightweight or sheer fabrics, French seams enclose the raw edges within a small channel that is then stitched closed. Initially, the technique can be a bit difficult to get the hang of, but with a little time and practise, the process becomes quite simple.
Instructions
Level: Intermediate
What You Need
Fabric
Sewing pins or clips
Iron
Scissors or a rotary cutter
Ruler or tape measure
1. Pin and sew the seam
Place wrong sides of the fabric together and pin in place. Stitch using a straight stitch with 5mm seam allowance.
Note on seam allowance
Your seam allowance when sewing this first step should be less than the total seam allowance. My total seam allowance is 10mm, and I want my finished seam width to be 5mm, so my seam allowance for this first step is 5mm.
To determine the required seam allowance, look at your pattern and subtract approximately 5mm from the total. If the total seam allowance is very large (e.g. 20mm), then it may be necessary to subtract more than this (e.g. 12mm).
2. Trim the seam allowance
Trim the seam allowance to 3mm (or less if you are feeling confident!). I sometimes find it easier to press my seam allowance before I begin trimming, as this prevents fraying and there is more fabric in the seam to press in place.
3. Press the seam
Press the fabric to give the seam a nice, sharp finish. If you are using a very lightweight fabric, such as chiffon, be as delicate with the iron as possible, using an up-and-down motion instead of dragging the iron along the seam.
Turn the fabric over so the wrong side is facing up, and press again.
4. Fold the fabric
Fold the fabric along the seam line so that the right sides of the fabric are together. Make sure the stitching is on the very edge of the fold to give a nice, sharp finish. Press the edge well to set the fold.
It might be helpful to add some pins to hold the fold in place before pressing to prevent the seam from moving.
5. Sew the seam closed
With the right sides together, stitch the seam with a 5mm seam allowance. Use as many pins as needed to get an accurate finish.
The seam allowance from the first step will be trapped inside the fold. It is important to sew your seam allowance accurately to prevent tufts of raw edges poking through the seam.
6. Press again
On the wrong side of the fabric, press the seam allowance to one side. Then turn the fabric over and press the seam flat one last time.
This is one of my favourite techniques, as it is a very elegant finish and makes garments feel more high-end. It can be tricky on super delicate fabrics, but the trick is to not skip any pressing!
Do you like this technique? Will you be giving French seams a go?