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Pattern Making: Boyshorts

Updated: Feb 4, 2023


Mood board of cream and white short knickers, lace bras, lace bralettes and matching vest tops. Text "Making Boyshorts"

When I was a teenager, boyshorts were the popular style of knickers to wear. They usually had a thick elastic waistband printed with a fun slogan or brand name. As I got older, I moved away from this style of knicker into styles with a more Brazilian or bikini cut leg. I have to admit that because if this, I was pretty unfamiliar with this style and so to begin with I researched different types of shorts and the various ways they are constructed.


I looked at a range of brands from high street to designer so that I could get a broad picture of boyshort designs. Some styles were less of a traditional 'shorts' shape and more just a fuller coverage knicker with a wider gusset and low hip.


Mood board of stretch boy short knickers in different lengths and colours.

To begin, I took my French knickers pattern, removed the side seam and shrunk this down so that it could be made in stretch fabric. I then tried this on. The fit was by no means perfect, but this gave me a good base to work from. Using my purple pen, I marked out where I wanted the leg length and the front and back gusset seams. I then cut out the shapes I had marked (I only cut up one side incase I needed to come back to the original pattern).


Paper with short pattern tracing, paper with gusset pattern tracing with alteration. Fabric gusset, pencil, rubber and pattern master on top of paper.

The next step was to trace off the cut out shapes. I could see from my initial drawing that some areas of the pattern were a bit off and impractical, especially the gusset shape! I tweaked and altered the lines using my patternmaster until I was happy. Then I cut out my gusset pattern and 'walked' this around the gusset seams on the upper panel to check the fit. Next, I added my seam allowance and I was ready to make my first toile!


Flat boyshorts first toile made from pink jersey with pinning at legs.

Overall, this first toile was a great success! It was very wearable as it was, with only a few tweaks required to steam line the fit. However, one thing I noticed while wearing the toile was that the front was longer than the back; I liked the idea of a more full coverage short but I also loved the cheeky shape on the bum. And so I decided to create three versions of the boxer style; skimpy boyshorts, classic boyshorts and long shorts. This meant I had a lot more work to do than if I was just tweaking the fit! Undeterred, I pinned and marked the alterations for the skimpy and classic styles, making notes as I went a long.


Model wearing pink jersey toile of boy shorts, front and back view.

I finalised the classic boyshort first as I felt this was a good mid point to build the next to styles on. I am really happy with the outcome and while this is not a style I normally wear, it is very comfortable and looks very cute! I will make a few tweaks to perfect the pattern then I will move on to the skimpy and long versions.


Stay tuned for the final skimpy boyshort and long shorts looks!






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