For my Valentine's Day set this year, I decided to make a non-stretch lace set. I chose to use the Flora bra, the Tara knickers and the Luna harness patterns. Since I first designed the shape of the Luna harness in 2016, I have adapted to use galloon lace, removed the lining and streamlined the making process. I think it works perfectly as part of this set, and the triangle shapes mirror each other beautifully. Here is how I made it.
Level: Intermediate
What You Need
Galloon non-stretch lace
4 x rings
5 x sliders
1 x swan hook
Flat elastic 6-10mm
Sewing pins or clips
Iron
Scissors or a rotary cutter
Ruler or tape measure
A4 paper
Printer
Cut out the pattern pieces
Cut out the two paper pattern pieces. Decide on the direction you would like your lace to face. I decided I wanted the large flowers in my embroidery to face toward the centre seam.
Position the pattern pieces carefully on the lace. It is important that the scallop edge does not overhang or undercut the edge of the pattern at the seam allowance on the centre front, waist and shoulder.
Cut the pattern out as a mirrored pair. It might be helpful to cut one panel first, and then lay this on top of the opposite side (with right sides facing together), and then cut out the second panel. Doing this will help you position the pattern pieces more accurately.
Hem the opening edges
Finish the edges of the openings by turning the edges to the inside and then turning again so that the raw edges are hidden (0.7cm S/A). Sew next to the folded edge using a straight stitch. This can be quite fiddly on delicate lace; if this is the case, then it is possible to fold the hem edge over once.
Sew the CF seams
Place the right sides together and stitch with a straight stitch (0.6cm S/A). It is important that the lace edges and the opening edges match up; this will give the garment nice, clean points.
Press the seam allowance open and stitch either side of the seam allowance to finish the raw edges. Trim any excess seam allowance. If there is excess fabric at the bottom of the seam, trim the seam to the shape of the scallop edge before stitching.
Or, press the seam open, trim the seam allowance to 2cm, and attach nylon seam tape over the seam to cover the raw edges.
Make the side elastic
Cut two 33cm pieces of elastic for the side straps. Attach the sliders to one end of the elastic by inserting the end of the elastic into one side of the slider, then folding down and through the other side of the slider. The "wrong" or plush sides of the elastic should face together. Stitch to secure the slider with a bar tack or small rows of zigzag stitch, as close to the slider as possible (2cm S/A). Trim the excess seam allowance.
Thread the loose end of the elastic through the ring. Then turn the elastic back towards the slider and inset the elastic into the slider. The end that you have just attached should now be hidden.
Attach the side elastic to the shoulder edge
On the loose end of the elastic, mark 9cm from the end with a pin; this marks how much elastic will be attached to the shoulder edge (including 1cm S/A at the end of the elastic).
Attach the elastic to the shoulder edge of the upper panel by placing the elastic on the right side of the shoulder edge with the plush side facing up. Stitch using a zigzag stitch, sewing along the inside edge of the elastic and stretching it evenly as you sew. The end of the shoulder edge should meet the pinned mark.
Turn the elastic to the inside of the garment and sew along the bottom edge of the elastic using a zigzag stitch. Repeat on the remaining shoulder.
Attach the waist elastic
Cut two pieces of 18cm elastic for the waist edge. Mark 13cm from the end (this includes 1cm S/A). Attach the elastic to the waist edges, following the two-step attachment technique from the previous step. The opening edge should meet the pinned mark.
Attach rings to open edges of waist elastic
Attach a ring to the ends of elastic at the centre front by folding the ends around the ring and stitching using a bar tack or rows of zigzag stitches (2cm S/A). At the outer edge of the waist, attach the ring from the side straps by folding elastic and lace ends around the ring and stitching.
Make the adjustable waist band
Cut the elastic for the waistband to 54cm or to your measurements. Attach the slider, following the same technique as for the side straps. Loop the open end of the elastic through one of the waist rings, then feed it back through the slider. Then attach the open end of the elastic to the other waist ring (be careful not to twist the elastic).
Make the CF Strap
Cut 20cm for the CF elastic. Attach the slider, looping through the centre front waist ring. Attach the loose end of elastic to the upper panel by positioning it under the CF seam and stitching using a bar tack or rows of zigzag (1cm S/A).
Make the neck straps
Cut two pieces of elastic for the neck, one 20cm and one 23cm. Attach the slider to the longer elastic, and instead of looping through a ring, loop through the swan hook instead.
Attach the ends of both the elastic straps to the neck ring (2cm S/A). Mark 5cm from the ring with a pin. Zigzag attach the elastic to the right side of the upper lace piece, turn over and zigzag again.
Lastly, make a loop on the open end of the neck elastic by folding the end back and securing with a bar tack or rows of zigzag stitch next to the end of elastic (2cm S/A).
